[Warning, this is a fairly political post. Visiting Cuba, it cannot be avoided.]
I decided to visit the museum of the revolution today. It is located in one of the lavish buildings of the Batista era. I thought it would provide a good context for my research, it has.
Having grown up in Canada during the winding down of the cold war, I was eager to hear the Cuban side of the story. Canadians are usually very sympathetic to the Cuban experience, both trying to forge our own way on the doorstep of the world's last standing superpower (both of us having aligned ourselves with 'competing' powers in the past, Canada with Britain and Cuba with the USSR). That being said, Canada, like most western democracies, is an unashamedly capitalist country, with some social democracy leanings (a thousand miles left of America and a couple hundred kilometres right of Sweden).
Not surprisingly the display in the museum was characteristic of what I would expect in Latin America. Due to poor English signage I went through the museum backwards. Starting with the Post-Revolution and building a Socialist Society then to the 1959 revolution and finishing up with a floor dedicated to Batista and prior revolutions, including the overthrow of Spanish rule and a small display showing the slave revolt and some interesting information on the indigenous peoples and the early colonial period.
The museum itself presents a very interesting aesthetic. The building is very 'bourgeois' (I imagine this is why it was abandoned), the old rooms are essentially left as they were... paint is peeling and flaking and all the old shuttered windows are open to a very 'naked' Havana. The displays house fascinating and some very moving relics, but have the feel of a small-town museum with cracked perspex boxes, and yellowed newspaper clippings. Some of the translations are also a little lacking. Despite those shortcomings you can see the touch of the 'people'. My feelings about Cuban Socialism are thus: At the time it was a reaction to a nasty oppressive regime. The socialist concept offered not only a way for the average person to get their 'dues' back from the capitalists, but a supposedly bright and equitable future. When the initial 'payback' was sorted, through a mass re-distribution of wealth, the people found themselves having still a very small share of the 'wealth'. Cuba today is probably more equitable than many other countries. Leaps and bounds beyond other Latin American countries. It is, however, missing the engine that generates 'wealth' (I use this term quite differently than pure economic growth). Maybe this is because it is an island of socialism in a sea of capitalism, or maybe the great socialist economists were wrong. We know that so many of their capitalists counterparts were. The system has seemed to curb some social ills like 'rampant want-itis'. People still acquire things, but they take greater care with what they have. There are, however, greater limits to what you can own here. You can, in theory, own up to a few acres of land, a decent house, the newest Nash Rambler, maybe even 4 Nash Ramblers... but cannot be a 'millionaire'. The system does not allow it, therefore the population adapts. I have not met anyone here who yearns for the same type of boundless power, fame and wealth. That isn't the driving force in Cuba. That isn't to say that people don't collect useless junk and aspirational goods. Believe me, there is a black market and it is saturated.
I consider values of popular representation and property rights to be central to the British way of life (and many other associated cultures). However, I feel that what these rights actually mean is a lot different than what people (esp popular opinion) think they mean. To own something in some sense, I think, really means means to exclude or control other's use of that thing. Under simple circumstances this makes sense. However, large corporations have skewed these rights to the point where ownership and control of most things has once again been put in the hands of a few. There are a lot of things wrong with society, but I suppose not enough wrong to want a revolution. One thing is certain, there is a great need for honesty and integrity.
The Americans' dealing with Cuba are a good example of 'ends justifying the means' tactics. [For an amusing look at this, check out this film.] The ends in the Americans' case were entirely selfish (although they'd clearly dispute that assertion). Today, in the museum, I saw some of their acts of terrorism toward Cuba. Releasing swine fever on pigs, tobacco viruses, leaf rot, assassination attempts, blowing up ships and aeroplanes, etc... Outright attacks to 'get back' at the Cubans for 'stealing' American property.
It is interesting how the Cubans have not bowed to American pressure in the last 50 years. It is likely that if the Americans had been a little less harsh initially, they could have used Cuba as a bridge to the Soviets, rather than building their own 'iron curtain' around the country. I mean, in the same 50 years they have extended their global business influence deep in to the Canadian economy, rigged the 1963 election, negotiated a free trade system gets turned off when it suits them and a laundry list of other minor atrocities. Lest I sound too negative, their copious capital has helped employ many a Canadian, but it always comes at a price, which is usually not in the favour of the 'client nation'.
I would assert that international relations in the future might be best based upon fair deals rather than thinly veiled self interest.
Friday, 11 January 2008
Thursday, 10 January 2008
an interview with Roberto Perez the permaculturalist
I decided that it might be a good idea to come up with a few specific questions for Roberto Perez of FANJ. I know I have a habit of leading conversations off track a bit. We'll see how it goes! [As you will read, I did lead the conversation off quite a bit, Roberto and I stayed talking from 2pm until we were kicked out of the office at closing time].
To give a bit of background... Roberto Perez was trained as a biologist and came to work with FANJ very early on in his career. He was involved in the Cuban urban agriculture movement from its beginnings. In fact, he was at the airport when the first permaculture designers came from Australia in the early 1990s. He was taught permaculture design from the Australians (along with English and an Aussie accent which has since become diluted). Since then, he has helped design and build demonstration gardens throughout Havana and trained hundreds of others in Permaculture design methods. He has also travelled extensively (rare for a Cuban) to see similar projects in other countries, especially Canada. He did a Postgraduate Diploma at St. FX in Antigonish, just 2 hours from my home!
Here goes my preposed questions:
[I only transcribed notes of Roberto's responses, a transcript would be pages long.]
"As a designer from a different culture, different climate and different economy, what would you say are the most precious 'jems of knowledge' that I should take back with me? I will be presenting my findings to a groups of ecological designers."
FLEXABLE POLITICAL WILL
The biggest enabling factor for the success and eventual integration of the work was flexable political will. This is especially true when it comes to land-use policy. Support for sustainable food systems came direct from the top (Fidel) and laws were altered and practises adapted that suited the development of urban agriculture. Roberto noted that this type of change is not so easy in a capitalist system where land has, what he described as, 'different value'. A good example of this flexability is the clearing and cleaning of vacant lots in Havana. As is common in Britian, vacacnt city lots in Havana gathered rubbish and debris (especially in the 1980s). Masses of red tape and petty quarrels between neighbours often kept these lots in a state of dis-repair. Changes in policy allowed these lots to be cleared and used for gardens. Roberto says that in other countries this would probably never happen. In other countries we often see vacant lots gathering rubbish with chain link fences around them preventing any useful use! In Cuba land only has value related to its usefulness, rather than speculative value.
MARKET FLEXABILITY
The socialist collective supply market was just as rigid [perhaps even moreso] as western capitalist markets. The political will that allowed changes in how food was marketed in Cuba found this truth: 'there is always space in the market for a variety of services'. For instance, there are rules that prevent small allotment gardeners in Britian from selling their produce. These rules are meant to protect farmers, who make their only livelihood from selling food. Cuban officials feared failure of the large collective farms and state price controls by allowing an alternative market. In reality, the state supplied food still plays a large part in the Cuban diet and will continue to do so. [At this point I added the comment that TESCO or Sainsbury's has nothing to fear from market gardeners. They are well suited to adapt and by no means fill all the 'needs' of the market.] Market regulators need to adjust rules to scale. The many food safety and tracability laws do help protect us from poor quality food, but do not make sense applied to a small vendor selling bottles of home made jam.
FOOD INDUSTRY LABOUR MARKET
Working in food production in Cuba pays well. This attracts innovative, intelligent and industrious workers. This isn't the same in other countries for many reasons. In order for the system to be sustainable something needs to be done to change this.
PLANNING AND DESIGN OF PUBLIC SPACES
Designers and planners have to rethink public spaces, especially parks and green spaces. There exists an absurd distinction between ornimental and productive horticulture. Edible plants need to be given a greater emphasis in public areas. This is still forthcoming in Cuba and a current FANJ project is dealing with this. Standard architectural rendering show shrubs and trees outside buildings, sometimes even inside. Why not apple or pear trees, berry hedges?
PLANNING OF GARDEN SPACE
There are physical limits with plants and space. There are also relationships to efficiency and size, labour requirements and economic sense when it comes to gardens. This is what has been discovered in Havana. In order of least productive to most productive: Home Garden, Allotment, Collective, and Community. This is also connected to size. However, we must not simply interpret this as 'bigger is better'. There are appropriate uses for each. That being said, it must be understood that the scale of productivity is not completely linear. When thinking of planning, a collective garden that supplies 5 families is probably a little smaller in total size than 5 family sized allotments. Efficiencies are gained in the layout and sharing of things like shed space, which makes sense but actual productivity is much much higher than an allotment and labour requirements per person are lower. The problem then becomes a social one. Cubans have developed various and flexable social system to suit collectives. They are usually based simply on labour. All production is based on number of hours worked in the garden.
CHEAP, HEALTHY AND FRESH
Locally grown food is cheap, healthy and fresh. Probably the most important one is cheap, in Cuba the farmer's markets are much much cheaper than the supermarkets. It is also much fresher. Farmer's markets in northern countries are expensive and thus limit their market.
"In Britian we faced a food crisis from 1939 to well into the 1950s. As an island nation that was highly dependant on trade, the war had a dramatic impact on daily life and people's perceptions of food. This response, however, was seen more as a 'war measure' that was quickly abandoned than a long term solution. As Cuba emerged from the 'Special Period', what has made these measures, such as urban agriculture, become long term solutions?"
The answer is basically twofold:
-Political will... see answer from above.
-It makes economic sense, urban farmers in Cuba tap in to a very lucritive market economy earning more than they would doing other jobs.
I concluded my conversation with Roberto speaking about possible collaborations with my contacts in Scotland and arranged a second meeting as it was time to go.
To give a bit of background... Roberto Perez was trained as a biologist and came to work with FANJ very early on in his career. He was involved in the Cuban urban agriculture movement from its beginnings. In fact, he was at the airport when the first permaculture designers came from Australia in the early 1990s. He was taught permaculture design from the Australians (along with English and an Aussie accent which has since become diluted). Since then, he has helped design and build demonstration gardens throughout Havana and trained hundreds of others in Permaculture design methods. He has also travelled extensively (rare for a Cuban) to see similar projects in other countries, especially Canada. He did a Postgraduate Diploma at St. FX in Antigonish, just 2 hours from my home!
Here goes my preposed questions:
[I only transcribed notes of Roberto's responses, a transcript would be pages long.]
"As a designer from a different culture, different climate and different economy, what would you say are the most precious 'jems of knowledge' that I should take back with me? I will be presenting my findings to a groups of ecological designers."
FLEXABLE POLITICAL WILL
The biggest enabling factor for the success and eventual integration of the work was flexable political will. This is especially true when it comes to land-use policy. Support for sustainable food systems came direct from the top (Fidel) and laws were altered and practises adapted that suited the development of urban agriculture. Roberto noted that this type of change is not so easy in a capitalist system where land has, what he described as, 'different value'. A good example of this flexability is the clearing and cleaning of vacant lots in Havana. As is common in Britian, vacacnt city lots in Havana gathered rubbish and debris (especially in the 1980s). Masses of red tape and petty quarrels between neighbours often kept these lots in a state of dis-repair. Changes in policy allowed these lots to be cleared and used for gardens. Roberto says that in other countries this would probably never happen. In other countries we often see vacant lots gathering rubbish with chain link fences around them preventing any useful use! In Cuba land only has value related to its usefulness, rather than speculative value.
MARKET FLEXABILITY
The socialist collective supply market was just as rigid [perhaps even moreso] as western capitalist markets. The political will that allowed changes in how food was marketed in Cuba found this truth: 'there is always space in the market for a variety of services'. For instance, there are rules that prevent small allotment gardeners in Britian from selling their produce. These rules are meant to protect farmers, who make their only livelihood from selling food. Cuban officials feared failure of the large collective farms and state price controls by allowing an alternative market. In reality, the state supplied food still plays a large part in the Cuban diet and will continue to do so. [At this point I added the comment that TESCO or Sainsbury's has nothing to fear from market gardeners. They are well suited to adapt and by no means fill all the 'needs' of the market.] Market regulators need to adjust rules to scale. The many food safety and tracability laws do help protect us from poor quality food, but do not make sense applied to a small vendor selling bottles of home made jam.
FOOD INDUSTRY LABOUR MARKET
Working in food production in Cuba pays well. This attracts innovative, intelligent and industrious workers. This isn't the same in other countries for many reasons. In order for the system to be sustainable something needs to be done to change this.
PLANNING AND DESIGN OF PUBLIC SPACES
Designers and planners have to rethink public spaces, especially parks and green spaces. There exists an absurd distinction between ornimental and productive horticulture. Edible plants need to be given a greater emphasis in public areas. This is still forthcoming in Cuba and a current FANJ project is dealing with this. Standard architectural rendering show shrubs and trees outside buildings, sometimes even inside. Why not apple or pear trees, berry hedges?
PLANNING OF GARDEN SPACE
There are physical limits with plants and space. There are also relationships to efficiency and size, labour requirements and economic sense when it comes to gardens. This is what has been discovered in Havana. In order of least productive to most productive: Home Garden, Allotment, Collective, and Community. This is also connected to size. However, we must not simply interpret this as 'bigger is better'. There are appropriate uses for each. That being said, it must be understood that the scale of productivity is not completely linear. When thinking of planning, a collective garden that supplies 5 families is probably a little smaller in total size than 5 family sized allotments. Efficiencies are gained in the layout and sharing of things like shed space, which makes sense but actual productivity is much much higher than an allotment and labour requirements per person are lower. The problem then becomes a social one. Cubans have developed various and flexable social system to suit collectives. They are usually based simply on labour. All production is based on number of hours worked in the garden.
CHEAP, HEALTHY AND FRESH
Locally grown food is cheap, healthy and fresh. Probably the most important one is cheap, in Cuba the farmer's markets are much much cheaper than the supermarkets. It is also much fresher. Farmer's markets in northern countries are expensive and thus limit their market.
"In Britian we faced a food crisis from 1939 to well into the 1950s. As an island nation that was highly dependant on trade, the war had a dramatic impact on daily life and people's perceptions of food. This response, however, was seen more as a 'war measure' that was quickly abandoned than a long term solution. As Cuba emerged from the 'Special Period', what has made these measures, such as urban agriculture, become long term solutions?"
The answer is basically twofold:
-Political will... see answer from above.
-It makes economic sense, urban farmers in Cuba tap in to a very lucritive market economy earning more than they would doing other jobs.
I concluded my conversation with Roberto speaking about possible collaborations with my contacts in Scotland and arranged a second meeting as it was time to go.
Tuesday, 8 January 2008
first time at FANJ
I was able to have a brief meeting with Roberto Sanchez of FANJ. He operates the 'Programa de Desarrado Local Sustentable' (excuse my horrid transcription of the Spanish) or PRODUS. Roberto isn't quite as fluent in English as Miguel or Julio, but was quite good compared to the average Cuban.
I was able to buy a copy of his book, co-authored by Carrie Cruz, whom I also met and shook hands with but does not speak English. I was told Carrie has a wealth of experience and would be essential to speak with, if I wanted to learn even more about the programme. Once again... I really wish I spoke Spanish.
The book, entitled 'Agriculture in the City: A Key to Sustainability in Havana, Cuba" was published in English as it was part of an IDRC research project. [For my non-Canadian readers, IDRC is the International Development Research Centre, a Canadian Crown Corporation, owned and operated by the Crown (government). They aid research in developing countries to help people there apply technology appropriately.] I was able to purchase a copy of the book for just $5 CUC. It is a very good read.
The unfortunate part of our conversation was that I found out I could not actually visit many of the places I would like to see as my tourist visa restricted my access. In order to visit any 'official place of business' ie: anything that gets money from the Cuban state, I would need to have a research visa. Frusteratingly, this visa is not difficult to get, it just requires time, approximately 6-8 weeks. Had I known this, I would have made the appropriate preparations before I came.
I made arrangements to come back and meet Roberto Perez, an international programme co-ordinator with FANJ. Roberto Sanchez says he speaks much better English, although I could easily understand Roberto S!
I was able to buy a copy of his book, co-authored by Carrie Cruz, whom I also met and shook hands with but does not speak English. I was told Carrie has a wealth of experience and would be essential to speak with, if I wanted to learn even more about the programme. Once again... I really wish I spoke Spanish.
The book, entitled 'Agriculture in the City: A Key to Sustainability in Havana, Cuba" was published in English as it was part of an IDRC research project. [For my non-Canadian readers, IDRC is the International Development Research Centre, a Canadian Crown Corporation, owned and operated by the Crown (government). They aid research in developing countries to help people there apply technology appropriately.] I was able to purchase a copy of the book for just $5 CUC. It is a very good read.
The unfortunate part of our conversation was that I found out I could not actually visit many of the places I would like to see as my tourist visa restricted my access. In order to visit any 'official place of business' ie: anything that gets money from the Cuban state, I would need to have a research visa. Frusteratingly, this visa is not difficult to get, it just requires time, approximately 6-8 weeks. Had I known this, I would have made the appropriate preparations before I came.
I made arrangements to come back and meet Roberto Perez, an international programme co-ordinator with FANJ. Roberto Sanchez says he speaks much better English, although I could easily understand Roberto S!
Friday, 4 January 2008
meeting a Cuban architect
I was extremely please to meet Mr Miguel Coyula, architect. Having just returned from a meeting with him I will endeavour to summarise our converstaion whilst I prepare lunch.
I chanced to meet Miguel simply by showing up at the Havana City Model that his group developed. I felt bad that I wasn't able to call ahead for an appointment, but nevertheless I proceeded and it provided to be a most fruitful conversation, I'll summarise, topically, below.
LIVING CITIES OR CITIES TO LIVE IN?
Miguel showed me on the model how the city of Havana has developed over time. Different coloured buildings are shown based on their time of construction: Colonial (1500-1899), Pre-Revolution (1900-1958) and Revolution (1959-onwards). It is clear to see that most buildings in Havana are 1900-1958, when there was a building boom. The major influence on these buildings was the from private developers building for the market economy. Much of this development is analogous to American cities f that period and is quite functional to this day. The colonial-era buildings are everyone's favourite. They have an enduring functionality and beauty. The layout of these buildings are appropriate for the climate, built with narrow streets that provide shade and inner atriums that allow for ventilation. After the revolution there was an 'explosion' of change which was reflected in the architecture. Early revolution architecture was bold, innovative, and functional. As time progressed the Soviet influence gave rise to long narrow and compact concrete, flat-roofed buildings. These buildings were built to provide a stanard level of housing fo people, many of whom fomerly lived in inner-city slums or in under-developed rural areas. One wuch development can be seen in Alamar on the east side of the city. Residents of this area refer to it as 'Siberia' beacuse of its distance from the city centre, lack of amenities and stark, cold, appearence. Miguel points to this as a good example of design influencing people's thoughts and lifestyle (in a negative fashion).
Some of his most recent work has been to work opposite of this... Community-based design and planning forums. A group of professionals from all areas, sociologists, architexts, psychologists, engineers, etc... all work to provide the community residents with a 'toolbox' of experts to help them achieve what they want. Making people the subject of the design rather than the object of it. A recently project with a group of Afro-Cubans in a certain area of Havana had the perspective home occupiers given a piece of paper to draw their 'dream home' on. The resultant designs caried somewhat, but many of them included a small room which seemed to have no function. When asked of the purpose of this room, it was identified as a place for their gods. Something that would have easily been left out by an architect, but is central to many Afro-Cuban's life and happiness.
Miguel once told the city planners that the measure of succes in buildings was not in the construction of x housing units for y price in z time, but happy families. He got some 'frusterated looks' from the planners. He says that in this, he is preaching a new faith of widening our view as designers, being more comprehensive.
THE SPECIAL PEROID
Miguel remembers well the special period. He says that it was very catastrophic. I would personally draw a comparison with war and post-war years in Britain (1939-1955). People felt the need to change their ways of live very deeply. Like Britons, Cubans were well equipted to compensate for the lack of food and oil by good education and stong support from the state. The dramatic change in the food system can be used as an example of something good and long-lasting that came from this period.
Miguel offered me an example of something that did not 'stick', as it were. With a two-thirds drop in oil imports, most cars were parked. The city buses went from 1500 down to 400. The drop in car travel was very noticable with cleaner air and quiet streets. Visitors claimed that Havana was the 'Caribean Amsterdam'. Bicycles were brought in from China and made available to purchase through work-places at a cost of about $1. Nearly everyone bought a bicycle and used it regularly. Many people thought that this would be a perminant feature of Havana. However, as soon as fuel became available at a reasonable price from Venuseula, this practice ended. Cars are now just as popular (if not moreso) than before. Miguel says this is a good example of how the bicycles were not seen as a 'solution' by the Cubans, merely a 'band-aid' treatment or stop-gap measure. The change was not cutural, more reactionary.
Contrasting this with changes in the food system, one of the possible reasons for success if the fact that the 'new food system' has put more control in the hands of both the producer and the consumer. Previously the food system was cenralised, there were more imports and choices, but prices were controlled and quality was not always a factor. Small, de-centralised market gardens and street markets allow direct contact between producers and consumers, as well as greater feedback. The prices at markets are also cheaper, because there is competition and de-regulation. This sustem has in-turn affected the diets of the Cuban people as they nor eat more 'whole' foods and make do with what is available at the markets.
CUBAN PARADOXES
Ninety percent of Cubans own their own homes, basically mortgage free. After the revolution they were able to buy their own homes with a 0% mortgage. However, there is currently little to no money available to repair or renovate them. If the average salary is less than $20 a month, and one gallon of paint is $5 you can understand why this is.
Another paradox is the system of earnings and housing. Socialism is supposed to allow for payment of wages based on contribution to society. However, in practise this does not always work.
[Postscript... My meeting with Miguel was not nearly long enough. He is planning on coming to the UK at some point, and I hope to meet him again. In the mean time I am looking for some of his academic publications in English).]
I chanced to meet Miguel simply by showing up at the Havana City Model that his group developed. I felt bad that I wasn't able to call ahead for an appointment, but nevertheless I proceeded and it provided to be a most fruitful conversation, I'll summarise, topically, below.
LIVING CITIES OR CITIES TO LIVE IN?
Miguel showed me on the model how the city of Havana has developed over time. Different coloured buildings are shown based on their time of construction: Colonial (1500-1899), Pre-Revolution (1900-1958) and Revolution (1959-onwards). It is clear to see that most buildings in Havana are 1900-1958, when there was a building boom. The major influence on these buildings was the from private developers building for the market economy. Much of this development is analogous to American cities f that period and is quite functional to this day. The colonial-era buildings are everyone's favourite. They have an enduring functionality and beauty. The layout of these buildings are appropriate for the climate, built with narrow streets that provide shade and inner atriums that allow for ventilation. After the revolution there was an 'explosion' of change which was reflected in the architecture. Early revolution architecture was bold, innovative, and functional. As time progressed the Soviet influence gave rise to long narrow and compact concrete, flat-roofed buildings. These buildings were built to provide a stanard level of housing fo people, many of whom fomerly lived in inner-city slums or in under-developed rural areas. One wuch development can be seen in Alamar on the east side of the city. Residents of this area refer to it as 'Siberia' beacuse of its distance from the city centre, lack of amenities and stark, cold, appearence. Miguel points to this as a good example of design influencing people's thoughts and lifestyle (in a negative fashion).
Some of his most recent work has been to work opposite of this... Community-based design and planning forums. A group of professionals from all areas, sociologists, architexts, psychologists, engineers, etc... all work to provide the community residents with a 'toolbox' of experts to help them achieve what they want. Making people the subject of the design rather than the object of it. A recently project with a group of Afro-Cubans in a certain area of Havana had the perspective home occupiers given a piece of paper to draw their 'dream home' on. The resultant designs caried somewhat, but many of them included a small room which seemed to have no function. When asked of the purpose of this room, it was identified as a place for their gods. Something that would have easily been left out by an architect, but is central to many Afro-Cuban's life and happiness.
Miguel once told the city planners that the measure of succes in buildings was not in the construction of x housing units for y price in z time, but happy families. He got some 'frusterated looks' from the planners. He says that in this, he is preaching a new faith of widening our view as designers, being more comprehensive.
THE SPECIAL PEROID
Miguel remembers well the special period. He says that it was very catastrophic. I would personally draw a comparison with war and post-war years in Britain (1939-1955). People felt the need to change their ways of live very deeply. Like Britons, Cubans were well equipted to compensate for the lack of food and oil by good education and stong support from the state. The dramatic change in the food system can be used as an example of something good and long-lasting that came from this period.
Miguel offered me an example of something that did not 'stick', as it were. With a two-thirds drop in oil imports, most cars were parked. The city buses went from 1500 down to 400. The drop in car travel was very noticable with cleaner air and quiet streets. Visitors claimed that Havana was the 'Caribean Amsterdam'. Bicycles were brought in from China and made available to purchase through work-places at a cost of about $1. Nearly everyone bought a bicycle and used it regularly. Many people thought that this would be a perminant feature of Havana. However, as soon as fuel became available at a reasonable price from Venuseula, this practice ended. Cars are now just as popular (if not moreso) than before. Miguel says this is a good example of how the bicycles were not seen as a 'solution' by the Cubans, merely a 'band-aid' treatment or stop-gap measure. The change was not cutural, more reactionary.
Contrasting this with changes in the food system, one of the possible reasons for success if the fact that the 'new food system' has put more control in the hands of both the producer and the consumer. Previously the food system was cenralised, there were more imports and choices, but prices were controlled and quality was not always a factor. Small, de-centralised market gardens and street markets allow direct contact between producers and consumers, as well as greater feedback. The prices at markets are also cheaper, because there is competition and de-regulation. This sustem has in-turn affected the diets of the Cuban people as they nor eat more 'whole' foods and make do with what is available at the markets.
CUBAN PARADOXES
Ninety percent of Cubans own their own homes, basically mortgage free. After the revolution they were able to buy their own homes with a 0% mortgage. However, there is currently little to no money available to repair or renovate them. If the average salary is less than $20 a month, and one gallon of paint is $5 you can understand why this is.
Another paradox is the system of earnings and housing. Socialism is supposed to allow for payment of wages based on contribution to society. However, in practise this does not always work.
[Postscript... My meeting with Miguel was not nearly long enough. He is planning on coming to the UK at some point, and I hope to meet him again. In the mean time I am looking for some of his academic publications in English).]
Thursday, 3 January 2008
First tatse of Cuban life...
[A little addition... to understand the following post I should introduce everyone to the Cuban monetary system. There are two currencies: convertable pesos (CUC) and national pesos. Convertable pesos are used mostly by tourists and used to be pegged to the US dollar, but are now worth a bit more £1 GBP = $1.75 CUC. National pesos are used by most Cubans for everything, they are paid in this currency $1 CUC = 26 National Pesos or £1 GBP = 45.5 National Pesos. Takes a bit of getting used to.]
Had a fairly busy day yesterday, all things considered, however it was still fairly slack considering my normal pace. I went over to Dale's house to check my email and his wife took me shopping at the grocery store (Palco, the posh store for overseas people). Food was fairly expensive, the prices varied widely from item to item. You would find UK prices on some things and extremely high prices on others. For instance, a bag of Nestle mini chocolate bars were $15 CUC. Oddly enough, most of the food in Palco were 'Our Compliments', which is an in-store brand for a large Canadian supermarket called Sobey's. Reminded me of the close ties that Canada has developed with Cuba.
The remainder of the day I spent cooking in the flat and repairing the cooker which had a problem with the gas igniter.
Julio came over in the evening and explained more to be about the money and day-to-day life in Cuba. I have also had a similar conversation with Dale and his wife, giving me 'a well experienced outsiders' perspective. It is interesting to see the contrast. There is certainly no comparison between Cuba and Canada. In Cuba, visiting a store would give you the impression that there has recently been a natural disaster. Not much selection and usually just 'bare essentials' on the shelves as compared what seems like an un-ending selection in most grocery stores in Canada or the UK. That being said, no one seems to be lacking for the essentials. Julio explained why.
He and his wife both have good jobs. They make their pay in National Pesos. He explained that a few things are provided to everyone by the state for free. The first big one is housing, which costs nothing. Nearly everyone in Cuba owns their own home, about 90%. If you wish to move house, you can trade your house with someone else. Otherwise it is difficult to move, as there is a dearth of new build homes. Even if you inherit a home, you may not be able to keep it, as the old adage of posession being nine-tenths of the law is very nearly the law in Cuba. If you aren't living in a house, you probably don't have much chance at owning it.
All utilities are owned by the state, so it is very cheap. Giving prices in CUC, a good estimate for a month might be $0.60 for gas, $3.00 for electricity, $3.50 for water and $0.50 for the telephone. That is less than $10 CUC for all the utilities for the average family with two teenage children.
As for food... Every person is allotted a basket of food per month for free. It isn't really 'enough', but is sufficient to stave off hunger, should that be the case. It is mostly beans, pulses, and rice with a small amount of chicken, meat and fish. Other food you would have to buy, most likely at the street markets. Food at the markets is much cheaper than at the stores. All food in the store is price controlled. Street markets operate on a 'free market' system, more or less. About $5 CUC can feed a person for two weeks on market food.
That brings us to wages. Being a socialist country, the wages are all set by the government and there is not a lot of spread between the lowest wage and the highest. $10 - $30 CUC month per person is about it. A doctor makes about $30 CUC and an unskilled worker probably makes $10. This means the average family brings in $20 to $40 CUC, roughly speaking. Given this and the cost of living, there is enough left over for a few odds and ends, but not enough to save. Saving money is not something Cubans usually do. Hence no Credit cards or bank accounts.
The disposable income left over after utilities and food would most likely be spent on transport and consumables like tobacco, alcohol or petrol.
Speaking of tobacco, Cubans smoke a lot of the stuff. Nearly everyone smokes and nerely everyone smokes cigars. Julio often said I am missing the two most imortant things in Cuba, rum and cigars. I would wager that there are other, less expensive, pleasures... namely music. It would seem that there is music everywhere, even as I sit and write this, I can hear music playing. In old Havana, live bands are everywhere. It makes for a very nice atmosphere. I should also be said that with the exception of a weekends the music usually dies down by 9 pm and doesn't cause any loss of sleep.
Other noise obervations... there are a lot of stray dogs about. It would seem that they probably have owners, but they aren't confined to their home lots. They are usually small dogs that keep to themselves with humans but like chasing other stay dogs and the odd cat. It would also seem many people have roosters, as they usually do a good job of waking me up in the morning. The electrical power also doesn't stay on very consistantly. It flickers now and then and seems to go out most every night for a minute or two.
I think Julio summed up life in Cuba. It is very day-to-day. You know that you have a certain things provided for, but you do not have credit or bank accounts. If you have money it is to provide for the next day. All Cubans seem to have relatives in Miami... Julio got a text message at Christmas time from a friend in Miami saying: "Lots of presents this year, but not much fun". He sent one back: "In Cuba, not many presents, but LOTS of fun." I am going to see if I can visit the Museum of the Revolution tomorrow to see if I can learn more about the socialist way of life here.
Had a fairly busy day yesterday, all things considered, however it was still fairly slack considering my normal pace. I went over to Dale's house to check my email and his wife took me shopping at the grocery store (Palco, the posh store for overseas people). Food was fairly expensive, the prices varied widely from item to item. You would find UK prices on some things and extremely high prices on others. For instance, a bag of Nestle mini chocolate bars were $15 CUC. Oddly enough, most of the food in Palco were 'Our Compliments', which is an in-store brand for a large Canadian supermarket called Sobey's. Reminded me of the close ties that Canada has developed with Cuba.
The remainder of the day I spent cooking in the flat and repairing the cooker which had a problem with the gas igniter.
Julio came over in the evening and explained more to be about the money and day-to-day life in Cuba. I have also had a similar conversation with Dale and his wife, giving me 'a well experienced outsiders' perspective. It is interesting to see the contrast. There is certainly no comparison between Cuba and Canada. In Cuba, visiting a store would give you the impression that there has recently been a natural disaster. Not much selection and usually just 'bare essentials' on the shelves as compared what seems like an un-ending selection in most grocery stores in Canada or the UK. That being said, no one seems to be lacking for the essentials. Julio explained why.
He and his wife both have good jobs. They make their pay in National Pesos. He explained that a few things are provided to everyone by the state for free. The first big one is housing, which costs nothing. Nearly everyone in Cuba owns their own home, about 90%. If you wish to move house, you can trade your house with someone else. Otherwise it is difficult to move, as there is a dearth of new build homes. Even if you inherit a home, you may not be able to keep it, as the old adage of posession being nine-tenths of the law is very nearly the law in Cuba. If you aren't living in a house, you probably don't have much chance at owning it.
All utilities are owned by the state, so it is very cheap. Giving prices in CUC, a good estimate for a month might be $0.60 for gas, $3.00 for electricity, $3.50 for water and $0.50 for the telephone. That is less than $10 CUC for all the utilities for the average family with two teenage children.
As for food... Every person is allotted a basket of food per month for free. It isn't really 'enough', but is sufficient to stave off hunger, should that be the case. It is mostly beans, pulses, and rice with a small amount of chicken, meat and fish. Other food you would have to buy, most likely at the street markets. Food at the markets is much cheaper than at the stores. All food in the store is price controlled. Street markets operate on a 'free market' system, more or less. About $5 CUC can feed a person for two weeks on market food.
That brings us to wages. Being a socialist country, the wages are all set by the government and there is not a lot of spread between the lowest wage and the highest. $10 - $30 CUC month per person is about it. A doctor makes about $30 CUC and an unskilled worker probably makes $10. This means the average family brings in $20 to $40 CUC, roughly speaking. Given this and the cost of living, there is enough left over for a few odds and ends, but not enough to save. Saving money is not something Cubans usually do. Hence no Credit cards or bank accounts.
The disposable income left over after utilities and food would most likely be spent on transport and consumables like tobacco, alcohol or petrol.
Speaking of tobacco, Cubans smoke a lot of the stuff. Nearly everyone smokes and nerely everyone smokes cigars. Julio often said I am missing the two most imortant things in Cuba, rum and cigars. I would wager that there are other, less expensive, pleasures... namely music. It would seem that there is music everywhere, even as I sit and write this, I can hear music playing. In old Havana, live bands are everywhere. It makes for a very nice atmosphere. I should also be said that with the exception of a weekends the music usually dies down by 9 pm and doesn't cause any loss of sleep.
Other noise obervations... there are a lot of stray dogs about. It would seem that they probably have owners, but they aren't confined to their home lots. They are usually small dogs that keep to themselves with humans but like chasing other stay dogs and the odd cat. It would also seem many people have roosters, as they usually do a good job of waking me up in the morning. The electrical power also doesn't stay on very consistantly. It flickers now and then and seems to go out most every night for a minute or two.
I think Julio summed up life in Cuba. It is very day-to-day. You know that you have a certain things provided for, but you do not have credit or bank accounts. If you have money it is to provide for the next day. All Cubans seem to have relatives in Miami... Julio got a text message at Christmas time from a friend in Miami saying: "Lots of presents this year, but not much fun". He sent one back: "In Cuba, not many presents, but LOTS of fun." I am going to see if I can visit the Museum of the Revolution tomorrow to see if I can learn more about the socialist way of life here.
Wednesday, 2 January 2008
London for Havana
[As this entry is backdated, I wanted to just add a little intro to the following posts. Whilst I was in Cuba I kept a paper journal of my travels. I thought it might be useful and sort of an informal resource for some the presentations I have been asked to make on the trip.
It is important for me to gratefully acknowledge the Scottish Ecological Design Association for awarding me the 2007 Krystyna Johnson Student Travel Award, without which I could not have made this journey.
The purpose of these entries is not to be a completely technical report nor is it purely a personal journal. I hope that it comes across as a bit of both.]
I left London in the very early hours from Sara's (my friend Yanos' sister from Newcastle) flat near Canary Wharf and caught the night bus to Trafalgar Square at 3:30 am. Despite lots of planning the day before, I had forgot to get enough change for the two bus journies. Hence, when I arrived at Trafalgar Square I didn't have change for the bus I was planning on taking to Victoria Station. The 24 hour TESCO Express was closed for renovations so I was forced to walk. Despite the setback, I still arrived at Victoria in enough time to catch the 5:00 am Gatwick Express. Arriving at Gatwick at 5:30 am, I still had to wait over an hour as there was only one person working the checkin desk for Cubana. The long queues and rediciously security measures always remind me of how much I hate air travel.
The flight to Havana seemed extremely long compared to other transatlantic crossings I have made. The plane was an older Boeing 767, chartered from a Spanish company, was a bit clunky, but suitable.
A mistake on the Cubana website showed my flight arrive an hour late, when in fact it had arrived about fifteen minutes early. This resulted in Dale (my aunt's newphew who lives in Havana) arriving at the airport a bit late. I'm glad he was early, as I was beginning to become a bit nervous given the general lack of English speakers I envisioned trying to explain my story to.
Dale had arranged for me to stay at his friend Juilo's, house. After getting settled in Julio showed me and three other Canadians around Old Havana. It is an amazing city, reminds me of where one might picture pirates, very Spanish colonial, preserved in a different way than is found in California or Mexico.
The flat where I am staying is lovely. It has three bedrooms with large kitchen, living room and dining room. Julio also has a very nice 1956 Chevy, which currently has carb problems, typical single bbl Rochester. It is a shame that he can't even pick up a two bbl Rochester, much better performance. I am going to give him a hand fixing it on Saturday.
It is important for me to gratefully acknowledge the Scottish Ecological Design Association for awarding me the 2007 Krystyna Johnson Student Travel Award, without which I could not have made this journey.
The purpose of these entries is not to be a completely technical report nor is it purely a personal journal. I hope that it comes across as a bit of both.]
I left London in the very early hours from Sara's (my friend Yanos' sister from Newcastle) flat near Canary Wharf and caught the night bus to Trafalgar Square at 3:30 am. Despite lots of planning the day before, I had forgot to get enough change for the two bus journies. Hence, when I arrived at Trafalgar Square I didn't have change for the bus I was planning on taking to Victoria Station. The 24 hour TESCO Express was closed for renovations so I was forced to walk. Despite the setback, I still arrived at Victoria in enough time to catch the 5:00 am Gatwick Express. Arriving at Gatwick at 5:30 am, I still had to wait over an hour as there was only one person working the checkin desk for Cubana. The long queues and rediciously security measures always remind me of how much I hate air travel.
The flight to Havana seemed extremely long compared to other transatlantic crossings I have made. The plane was an older Boeing 767, chartered from a Spanish company, was a bit clunky, but suitable.
A mistake on the Cubana website showed my flight arrive an hour late, when in fact it had arrived about fifteen minutes early. This resulted in Dale (my aunt's newphew who lives in Havana) arriving at the airport a bit late. I'm glad he was early, as I was beginning to become a bit nervous given the general lack of English speakers I envisioned trying to explain my story to.
Dale had arranged for me to stay at his friend Juilo's, house. After getting settled in Julio showed me and three other Canadians around Old Havana. It is an amazing city, reminds me of where one might picture pirates, very Spanish colonial, preserved in a different way than is found in California or Mexico.
The flat where I am staying is lovely. It has three bedrooms with large kitchen, living room and dining room. Julio also has a very nice 1956 Chevy, which currently has carb problems, typical single bbl Rochester. It is a shame that he can't even pick up a two bbl Rochester, much better performance. I am going to give him a hand fixing it on Saturday.
Friday, 31 August 2007
Summer
Well, summer, summer, summer....
So much happening, so little time to write about it just now.
Check out my friend's David and Theresa's wedding photos:
http://picasaweb.google.com/s.k.brogan/DavidAndTheresaSWeddingSverige
Yeah, sorry I can't rss it properly from here... grr.
Will post again sooner rather than later. Promise.
So much happening, so little time to write about it just now.
Check out my friend's David and Theresa's wedding photos:
http://picasaweb.google.com/s.k.brogan/DavidAndTheresaSWeddingSverige
Yeah, sorry I can't rss it properly from here... grr.
Will post again sooner rather than later. Promise.
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